Travel
Thailand is one of the easiest countries in Asia to travel independently. The transport works, it is cheap, and almost everything can be booked the day before. What catches people out is not difficulty but distance: the country is larger than it looks, and the Gulf islands and the Andaman coast are on opposite sides of it. Plan around that and the rest is straightforward.
Getting there
Bangkok has two airports and takes almost all the long-haul traffic. Phuket has its own international airport, and Koh Samui a small one served mostly from Bangkok. Most trips start in Bangkok whether or not that was the intention, which is an argument for giving the city a few days rather than treating it as a connection.
Getting around the country
Domestic flights are frequent and cheap, and they are how most people cover the long distances — Bangkok to Phuket is under two hours. Trains are slower, much cheaper and genuinely pleasant, and the overnight sleeper south is an experience in itself. Buses go everywhere. For the Gulf islands the route is a flight or train to Surat Thani and a ferry across to Samui, Phangan or Tao.
Getting around locally
In Bangkok the BTS Skytrain and the MRT are the only sane option at peak times; the traffic is as bad as its reputation and the river boats are often faster than the road. Everywhere else it is songthaews — pickup trucks with benches, running fixed routes for a fixed fare — plus taxis, tuk-tuks and ride-hailing apps. On the islands a rented scooter is what most people end up on.
A word about scooters
Renting one is easy, cheap and the normal way to see an island. It is also how a large number of visitors get hurt every year. Wear a helmet, check that your travel insurance actually covers riding, and do not learn on Koh Phangan's hills. If you are not confident, taxis cost more and are still not expensive.
Before you go
- Passport valid at least six months past your return date
- Check the visa rules for your nationality — they change, and they differ by how long you are staying
- Travel insurance that covers medical treatment and, if relevant, riding a motorbike
- A rough budget: Thailand is cheap day to day, and flights and accommodation are where the money goes
When to come
Broadly, November to February is the dry, cool and busy season. But the country has two coasts on two weather systems: the Andaman side — Phuket — and the Gulf side — Samui and Phangan — do not have their wet seasons at the same time. If you are combining an island with the mainland, check both rather than assuming one season covers the trip.
Staying connected
A local SIM or eSIM is inexpensive and worth arranging before you land, because maps, ride-hailing and ferry bookings all assume you have data. Wi-Fi is good in hotels and cafés and unreliable everywhere else.
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